December 6th, 2008 by admin

Adam, Bob and myself hit Jordan River by about 7:45 -8:00.  The waves were shaping up and looked promising but there were already a few people out in the water so we decided to go check out China.  We hiked down and saw there was only one guy out there.   We figured we could definately surf here but we would give one more look back at Jordan River before we committed.  JR was about the same so the decision was made, we drove back to China Beach suited up and hit the water.

The waves were not all that big (4 to 6 ‘ers) but provided for some fun rides.  There was barely any wind whatsoever and the waves were rolling in from the Northwest.  The tide was all the way in but just starting to head back out.  The waves were swelling up best right in the heart of Rock Piles so that’s where we rode for the majority of the day.  The Rock Piles may be one of my new fave spots.  When your out there you can easily identify the huge piles of rock that sit just below the surface, through the crystal clear teel green water.  You just gotta make sure you keep your head on a swivel and always know where the rock piles are when your charging through on a wave.

Adam gave me a few really great surf tips that made an immediate impact on my surfing.  He suggested I pull myself up higher on my board and then really lean back when getting up to my feet.  The reason why I have been further back on my board is because I have been nose diving when I put my front foot down, but when you lean back you eliminate that problem.  My pop up is all of a sudden beginning to feel very natural and less forced which also results in my footing being in exactly the right place on the board which makes my turns much more comfortable as well.  Thanks Triple-A.

September 20th, 2008 by admin

Steve, Bob, Adam and myself headed up to Ucluelet to camp for the night.  We got to bed pretty late no thanks to the relentless Wombat attacks.

Killer Wombat

Got at it bright and early because our campsite turned out to be a road, so we woke up to move our tents so a logger could get through.

Great day of surfing 4-5 footers in sets of 3-4 every couple of minutes.

Razor, Ali and Lanny met up with us for the second half and the waves maintained all day.

Very first time surfing on my brand new Al Merrick Designed Channel Islands 7′2, M-13.  I LOVE IT.
Caught the first wave I attempted and never looked back.  Thanks wifey